Skis need to be waxed when the base dries out and has no wax in it anymore. You will see areas of white chalky appearance in the base where it has no wax. These areas form along the edges and spread into the middle. When there is no wax your ski bottoms will feel rough and dry.
Over time, without wax, the base of a ski or board will start to dry out and whiten, almost like the black is fading. As it continues to dry, it shrinks. In extreme cases, the base can shrink away from your edges, making them prone to blowing out of the ski on a rock or hard ice.
Discoloration on the base of skis is common when the layer on wax on then has diminished or has been removed. This is one of the clearest signs that your skis are in need of re-waxing. This often can give a chalky white appearance on the base of skis. This chalky white appearance is most noticeable on black skis.
Begin dripping wax onto the skis or snowboard.
Press the wax to the iron, moving it around on the hot surface. This will start melting the wax, dripping a small stream onto the ski or snowboard. You don't need full coverage here, you'll spread the wax over the entire base in the next step.
DO STORE IN DRY AREA Your skis and boards could be stored standing upright on the tails or on their sides in a damp free environment. A great storage place could be under your bed, or in the corner of an interior closest in the house. DO NOT store in the garage, damp basement or attic.
If an area is too dry, add more wax. The wax layer should be thin enough that one end dries as you reach the other end. Wait for the ski or snowboard to cool and dry completely (30 minutes to 1 hour). Don't cool the ski or board outside because that will cause the wax to get pushed back up out of the pores of the base.
Simple rub on waxes will typically last one to three days before you need to apply another layer. Whereas a proper iron on waxing of your skis can last you up to ten days. Of course, weather conditions and how often you are skiing will also play a role in how long your ski wax lasts.
At a minimum, you should wax them once at the start of every season. However, if you're a frequent skier it also makes sense to wax them once more during the season.
Basically, a machine is required to accelerate the overall process. You can do the same by hand, it just takes longer. If you have the time, its hard to match the detail hand waxing can do. However for serious correction like removing swirls or heavy scratches – a machine is a must.
Tip: Spray WD-40 Specialsit Water Resistant Silicone Lubricant on your ski bindings to precent them from rusting- it also helps make snow slide right off of them!
Quote: You can comfortably ski for a lot longer without waxing than most people think - I've often gone 30-50 ski days between waxes on several pairs and the skis slide just fine. But there's no question that they do slide much better when freshly waxed.
That candle wax is softer, and so may not last quite as long as ski wax which may include candle waxes along with other harder wearing waxes.
When in doubt about which temperature of wax to use, go colder than the conditions call for. Cold wax on warm snow is okay, warm wax on cold snow is a disaster. Always work from the tip of the ski to tail of the ski. A digital waxing iron allows you to maintain a consistent and very accurate temperature.
What you need is a wax that will work on the plastic base of the ski, is designed to work in very cold temperatures, and stay on even with abrasion (such as you get when skiing), so I wouldn't use a car wax.
Glenn and Robin discovered that, although not durable, dish soap, Lemon Pledge, and Rain-X all made their skis much faster in high moisture conditions. But it was durable enough to last a couple laps around the course as required for the race.
Beeswax works in all conditions for a few runs and re-apply, soap good for a 20-40sec run on just below freezing and above days (catches friend off guard when you leave them in the dust).
Ski wax companies have been using Paraffin based waxes to keep skiers and snowboarders gliding down the mountain for years. These waxes are costly, complicated, temperature specific, wear off quickly, and produce a huge amount of waste.
Modern bindings are not designed to be relubed, and do not need it providing that you treat them decently. However the heel track & the AFD (if it's a sliding one) should be lubed with a silicone lube approx every 30 days of use.
By not waxing your car on a regular basis, you are giving these corrosive substances a better chance of damaging the clear coat (the finish on top that seals the paint) and exposing the paint below. In addition, you're making it harder to clean the car.
DA waxing is easy. You can get a more uniform spread and it goes on thin. I use a Red Pad (can use grey or black). I use a 6.5 inch size with my Flex 3401 VRG and have the setting on 1.5.
Once you've used polish to get your paint into a better condition, it's a good idea to add a protective layer of wax or sealant. This extra layer covers the newly glossy paint and protects it from muck, as well as adding even more shine!
It's not always necessary to polish a car before you wax it. Polishing removes a layer of your clear coat, so it should only be done when you want to remove damage and scratches.
Ceramic protectants (coatings) provide a much higher durability than wax. They resist heat, UV rays, environmental contaminants & harsh detergents much better than wax. Wax on the other hand simply sits on top of the paint's surface. It does not create the chemical bond like we find with ceramic coatings.
a 3 stage polish is a 3 step process in which you use 3 different polishes to end up with a finishing polish. It doesn't have to mean that you begin with a rough polish, then a medium polish to end with a finishing polish. It also applies when you use a medium polish, light polish and then a finishing polish.